BEAD FISHING TIPS
The experienced bead fisherman know's that replicating eggs by bead is the most effective way to fish trout, steelhead and salmon. During the alevin stage when salmon, steelhead and trout first hatch they are attached to the yolk sac as a food source. When the yolk is depleted the young salmon, steelhead and trout must look for food. Naturally eggs and alevin are on the menu. Below are basic set ups to assist when fishing beads on rivers and streams behind any spawn. Bead fishing is traditionally performed while fishing under a float, indicator or bouncing bottom with a conventional fly, spey, center pin, level line or spinning rod out fit. Which ever way fits you is entirely up to you but remember the key to bead fishing is matching the spawns correct size, color and buoyancy and the lower currents speed ( rivers bottom current speed ) with your presentation. If you do you will have great success! Below you will find bead recommendations for specific water conditions and a format to follow when selecting your bead to fish behind each specific spawn ( trout, steelhead and salmon) and water condition ( chocolate, green or clear gin). Further down the page you will see recommendations on what main lines to use, when to use a slide line bobber or an indicator, when to fish bottom / bouncing bottom, what leader lines to use and their appropriate lengths, when to fish, where to fish and much more. As you scroll further down this page you will also find videos to assist in rigging a slide float ( bobber ), an indicator, a single and double bead leader and many other videos to assist with your salmon, steelhead and trout bead fishing success. Be sure to check back often as we continue to add new methods proven to catch these elusive fish.
The sub menu below was created for your research convenience to use before every trip. It's very important to check weather, stream flows, river temperatures, lunar calendar and where the fish are in the migration with fish reports. By doing so your'e assuring your self a successful trip on the water. Now you can research these key elements with our quick, click menu below. If you are from Idaho we added a few other links that pertain to Idaho steelhead & salmon fishery rules and regulations as well as steelhead and salmon damn counts, hatchery returns and pit tag reports.
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RESEARCH SUB - MENU
WEATHER - US STREAM FLOWS - CANADIAN STREAM FLOWS - LUNAR CALENDAR - US FISH REPORTS - ALASKA SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - ARKANSAS FISHING RESOURCES CALIFORNIA SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - ARIZONA FISHING RESOURCES - CONNECTICUT FISHING RESOURCES - COLORADO FISHING RESOURCES - DELAWARE FISHING RESOURCES - IDAHO SALMON SEASON & RULES - IDAHO STEELHEAD SEASON RULES - IDAHO STEELHEAD DAM COUNTS - IDAHO SALMON DAM COUNTS - IDAHO STEELHEAD REPORTS - IDAHO SALMON REPORTS - IDAHO PIT TAG REPORT - IDAHO STEELHEAD HATCHERY RETURNS - IDAHO CHINOOK SALMON HATCHERY RETURNS - IDAHO SOCKEYE SALMON HATCHERY RETURNS - ILLINOIS FISHING RESOURCES - INDIANA FISHING RESOURCES - IOWA FISHING RESOURCES - KENTUCKY FISHING RESOURCES - MAINE FISHING RESOURCES - MARYLAND FISHING RESOURCES - MASSACHUSETTS SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - MICHIGAN SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - MISSOURI FISHING RESOURCES - MONTANA FISHING RESOURCES - NEBRASKA FISHING RESOURCES - NEVEADA FISHING RESOURCES - NEW MEXICO FISHING RESOURCES - NEW YORK SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - OHIO FISHING RESOURCES - OREGON SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - PENNSYLVANIA FISHING RESOURCES - TENNESSEE FISHING RESOURCES - UTAH FISHING RESOURCES - VIRGINIA FISHING RESOURCES - WASHINGTON SALMON & STEELHEAD RESOURCES - WISCONSIN FISHING RESOURCES - WYOMING FISHING RESOURCES
What are Steely Ron's Go To Beads?
Hello Fellow River Dwellers,
I am always asked what are my go to colors ( beads ) to fish and I always reply I don't have one I have dozens!!!!! Here is why......I have many depending on flows, time of day , color of water, how far I am fishing into the spawn ( if it has started at all ), what species have spawned in the fishery I am fishing and the time of year each specie will spawn. Then taking all these elements into account I start matching the egg patterns ( beads ) accordingly. Just like matching any insect hatch size, color and buoyancy is key. There are many strike colors that will promote a strike and do incredibly well at the right time but I prefer a more natural egg bead over any other pattern especially in very low, clear gin water conditions. If water blows out due to storms with snow melt offs then it's time to back up and think about what fish would see in these conditions.
Bead Fishing Chocolate, High, Murky Water Conditions
With water levels rising rapidly trout, steelhead and salmon won't spawn unless absolutely necessary but would and will forage on eggs pushed from the safety of their beds due to the rapid rise in water levels ( flooding ). These eggs have been incubating for quite some time and look nothing like the illustrious fresh birthed egg they once were. No these eggs now are a whitened out version of the eggs original color. As the egg ages it will become more and more white due to proteins building up on the eggs outer shell as protection against the elements and later on as food source for the very alevin that lies and waits inside the egg to hatch. Good colors to use in these conditions when not sure: yellows ( replicate whitefish, trout and steelhead eggs ) , pinks ( replicate salmon eggs ), oranges ( replicate trout, steelhead and some salmon eggs ), reds ( replicate salmon eggs ), peaches ( replicate trout, steelhead and some salmon eggs ). Remember all of these colors will be very aged ( frosty ) as the eggs would be in these conditions. Remember try to find what species spawn in that fishery and when so, so you can match your beads accordingly.
***** REMEMBER TROUT, STEELHEAD AND SALMON WILL NOT SPAWN IN CHOCOLATE MURKY FLOOD WATER UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY SO STAY AWAY FROM FRESH EGGS IN THESE CONDITIONS!!!!*****
Bead Fishing Green Water ( Everything Goes! No Holds Barred )
With water levels dropping and water clarity returning to a neutral green not yet a clear gin water clarity allows one the opportunity to fish a multitude of colors that would typically spook fish in low, clear gin water conditions. For instance brighter versions ( colors ) of natural eggs and cured roes ( pinks, oranges, red, yellows, tangerines, peach, chartreuse, cerise, etc.) seem to do real well in the morning and evening while the sun is off the water but once the sun hits the water they stop getting struck. Rule of thumb, Once the sun hits the water it is time to return to matching a closer version a natural egg patterns with a little extra pop. A slightly brighter version of the eggs being spawned helps in green water to promote a strike when it's harder for the fish to see some of more natural slightly translucent fresh eggs being spawned. One might ask , should I stop using fresh egg bead imitations all together in green water? Absolutely not! Just brighter versions of fresh ( live ) eggs with a little pizzazz, with a little bead magic included. What about old aged eggs in green water, should I stop fishing them? Absolutely not! Fish are pairing to mate, and some have already spawned. Hens ( female steelhead and salmon ) will be preparing their nest by moving rocks with their snout and the sweeping away of deb-re ( twigs, leaves, etc. ) with the fanning of their tail. By doing so they, ( the hen ) inadvertently sweep eggs previously spawned up into the rivers current to be preyed upon by juvenile fish. The eggs swept from their beds would have a very aged white sheen to them and would be a definite bead color to use. It seems like aged ( old ) egg replications do good pretty much all the time from what you wrote about above pertaining to high, murky, chocolate water conditions? Absolutely, once the spawn starts it only takes hours for eggs to white out and once they do those aged old egg replications ( old reliable ones ) will be apart of my arsenal of go to beads for the rest of the season.
Bead Fishing Low, Clear, Gin Water Conditions
Water levels have dropped and the water clarity is unbelievably clear gin. In these low clear, gin water conditions it is time to match the size , color and bouncy of the spawn as close as possible just like matching any insect to fly when fishing behind a insect hatch. Fish can see everything now and their easily spooked, the slightest inclination that something is wrong will bump these fish ( steelhead, trout, and salmon ) immediately out of that lane they're holding. Tackle should be as lite as possible with bead sizes ranging from 10, 8 and 6mm. 10 and 8mm to be used in the morning and evening hours when the sun is off the water and 8 and 6mm's when the sun is on the water. One thing to keep in mind there isn't one specific color that will work in these conditions there is an assortment of colors that will work because of the many stages of the spawn. Make sure to cover ( match ) your beads size and color to the many stages of the spawn when doing so will you always up your success when bead fishing in low, clear, gin water conditions.
Quick Bead Tips
When I salmon, steelhead or trout bead fish I typically rig a tandem bead leader with 2 hooks. One bead pegged 2" above the 1st hook in middle of the leader and one bead pegged 2" above the 2nd hook on the end of the leader. This technique allows me to cover 2 sizes, 2 colors and 2 lanes with my beads ( egg replications ) every cast. I'll have 2 rods ready to fish alternate at all times. If I'm fishing before the spawn one rod will be rigged with a 10 & 8mm or 12 & 10mm bead and the other rod with a 10 & 6mm or a 8 & 6mm bead. This allows me to cover multiple colors and sizes that the fish typically wouldn't strike during the spawn. If I'm fishing during the spawn when fish have seen eggs I'll use smaller beads 8 & 6mm's to match and replicate the correct size of eggs with the correct size bead. As the eggs age I'll match their many stages and colors with the correct egg pattern ( trout, steelhead or salmon bead ). Now the length of leader depends on where the fish are holding in the river. If fish are holding in fast water, behind rocks or structures, or in quick pockets then I'll rig a short leader to get the beads down quickly ( A 1 1/2' - 4' leader ). If the fish are holding in long slow stretches of water, deep pools, or in slow pockets then I'll rig a much longer, more forgiving leader ( A 5' - 8' leader ). For leader I use fluorocarbon because it has very little memory and visibility ( Fish have a hard time seeing it and it moves fluently with the current). I always go as light as possible ( Causing less drag against the bead in the current ). When selecting hooks I go as small and as light as possible as well ( a lighter smaller hook helps the bead to stay suspended 1" - 3" above the bottom of the river and not pinned to the bottom by the weight of the hook ). I typically use a conventional Snell hook by Owner, Gamagatsu or Diachi. I tie the Snell hooks to the leader with variation of the egg loop knot. This knot allows me to create many egg patterns, alvin replications, flesh patterns, and much, much more directly through its loop. Now how I'll fish, either under a indicator or bouncing bottom, will depend on where the fish are holding? If fish are holding in long slow stretches of water, deep pools, or in slow pockets then I'll fish under a slide bobber approximately 6" above the bottom of river. If the current is moderate to fast then I'll fish Indicator dragging my weight up and over the bottom of the river. The indicator dragging the weight over the bottom of the river allowing it ( the indicator ) to slow up in the faster upper current while the beads and rigging match lower currents speed below. If the rivers current is moving fast, too fast for a bobber or indicators then I'll switch over to bottom bouncing. When I fish bottom / bouncing bottom I use just enough weight to barely touch the bottom of the river allowing my beads to to stay suspended 1" - 3" above the bottom of the river replicating the appearance and buoyancy of a real fish egg. If the weight is to heavy it will pin the beads against the bottom of the river. Not good! Remember the key to catching trout, steelhead & salmon when trout, steelhead and salmon bead fishing is matching the lower currents speed and the eggs being spawned with your bead. If you do you'll definitely up your success and catch more fish ( trout, steelhead & salmon ).
Where to Fish on the River
Neutral Green to Low, Clear Gin Water Clarity
Where to fish on the river with neutral green to low, clear gin water clarity ( normal to low water flows ) ? I find that salmon, steelhead, & trout typically take the path of least resistance (conserving energy) when migrating up river during the spawn no matter what the water flows are or conditions. Good areas to fish in neutral to clear gin water conditions are long deep stretches of water, deep pools, pockets of water behind rocks (boulders) and other structures ( trees, man made structures, diversions, etc ). All of these areas provide depth and security for these fish allowing them to conserve energy while not being seen. One thing to realize is that these fish don't like to be seen. If you can't see them then most likely they can't see you. If possible always fish deeper greener water where fish feel more secure not being seen. If water levels are low alleviating depth on the river I typically fish behind boulders, tree roots in the river, under rock and tree over hangs, and sleeves (lengths of soft water formed by the wind in the river ). In low clear gin water conditions the distorted top water behind rocks and other structures provides added cover for the fish. Areas I especially like to fish are the pools prior to and after rapids. I typically find great numbers of trout, steelhead and salmon holding in these pools waiting for the correct water levels and temperatures to promote their migration up river. Once they start their migration up river continue to fish the areas discussed above. If you do you will have great success fishing.
Chocolate to Murky Green Water Clarity
Areas to fish in chocolate to murky green water conditions are the pools prior to and after rapids, pockets behind boulders & tree roots, and right up against the rivers edge or bank. In these conditions fishing can be tough but when these ares are covered you will find fish holding, conserving energy and staying out of the way of anything coming down river. In these conditions fish ( trout, steelhead and salmon ) typically stop eating until conditions are back to some what normal, murky green water conditions. When flood water's prevail ( chocolate brown water ) I suggest taking a rain check and fishing another day.
When to Fish for Trout, Steelhead & Salmon
It is important to check weather, water conditions, dam counts ( fish returning ) in fisheries supporting dam's, fish reports and the schedule of the moon ( full moon ) before every fishing trip. If weather and water conditions are bad typically fishing will be to. If fish reports and dam counts are low then fishing will be slow. If the moon is scheduled to be full then the fish will be active at night and fishing during the day will be slow. When I fish I always make sure that the weather, water conditions, and fish reports are good before I go. If the moon is scheduled to be full I'll typically prolong the trip until moon conditions are back to normal. If I do decide to fish with a full moon scheduled I'll fish in the morning , early evening and at night but not during the day.
WHAT ROD & REEL TO USE?
What ever system you prefer ( fly / spey, conventional level line, spinning, or center pin ) I highly recommend a rod long enough to mend line quickly when fishing under a bobber or indicator and sensitive enough when bottom bouncing you can feel every movement of the terminal tackle ( swivel and weight ) against the bottom of the river.
As for a reel it's absolutely necessary to have a smooth drag regardless the system ( fly / spey, conventional level line, spinning or center pin ) . With spinning or traditional level line systems it is ideal to have a reel that fits comfortably in your hand and can retrieve line quickly when necessary. With spey or fly outfit it's nice to have a light reel as the days are long on the water but more importantly the combined weight of rod and reel balances out so it does not effect the dynamics of your cast. Great rod lengths very from 9 - 14' depending the size of the river system, the fish being targeted ( trout, steelhead or salmon ), and the genre ( system ) of fishing you prefer ( spey / fly, conventional level line, spinning or center pin ). If you are just starting out I highly recommend a 11' medium light spinning rod accompanied with medium light class spinning reel. This system once mastered is very rarely out fished.
WHAT MAIN LINE TO USE?
As main lines very for the spey or fly system there is only one I will recommend for the traditional level line or spin rod advocate. Braid!!!! When you do the math it has everything one wants in a main line. It's lean diameter ( 1/4 the width of mono-filament ) cuts right through the rivers current alleviating drag. It also floats and resist water ( unlike mono filament) allowing one to mend line properly when fishing under a bobber or indicator. One might argue, braid does not stretch like mono filament aren't you afraid your leader will break at strike impact because of this. Absolutely not, a 11' rod designed to absorb the surge of the fish will protect the leader at strike impact ( hook set ). As long as you don't use to heavy of a rod this should not be a factor regardless the system ( conventional level line or spinning rod outfit ).
WHEN TO USE A B0BBER OR INDICATOR?
With the spey or fly rod a indicator is recommended when casting further out to reach the lane in which fish are occupying especially if fish are holding in a stretch that is long and wide. It is also necessary to use a indicator when water flows are at a minimal and you need the added left of a indicator to transition down river and fish properly. As for the level line or spinning rod out fit I recommend only fishing under a bobber or indicator when there is not enough current for one to fish properly bouncing bottom.
Note : When selecting a slide bobber or indicator it is important to select one that maintains its course in the current without being pulled back to the interior shoreline by the weight of line extended from the rod bearing down on it.
Slide Line Bobber Rigging Instructions
Click Images Below to Enlarge and get Step by Step Instructions
Click next picture to start
1st Tie a boober stop knot about 2" onto your main line
2nd Slide a bead, bobber and bead onto the main line below the bobber stop knot. 3rd tie a barrel swivel with clamp to the main line below the last ( bottom ) bead
4th Attach your weighting assembly to the clamp of the barrel swivel ( I like to use banding with a series of split shot's. The added elasticity of the banding allows one to snap off or snap free with ease when snagged to the bottom of the river. Most of the time this system snaps free with out breaking off.
Next tie your leader to the swivel ( the side with the clamp ), peg your bead 3" above the hook, and adjust the depth you'll fish under the bobber by sliding the bobber stop knot up or down your min line. Now that your riigged follow the steps above pertaining to fishing with a slide line bobber, if you do, you will have great success when fishing with trout, steelhead and salmon beads .
Level Line & Spinning Rod Outfit Indicator Rigging Instructions
Click Images Below to Enlarge and get Step by Step Instructions
Click next picture to start
1st Tie the indicator and it's 5" leader to the main line with a bobber stop knot
4th Tie the swivel and weighting assembly to the main. I like to use banding with a series of split shot's clamped to it. The added elasticity of the banding allows me to snap off or snap out with ease when I'm snagged to the bottom of the river. Most of the time I snap out free from the bottom or lose just one split.
5th Tie your leader to the swivel ( the side with the clamp ), peg your bead 3" above the hook, and adjust the depth you'll be fishing under the indicator by sliding the bobber stop knot up or down your main line. Now that your rigged follow the steps above, if you do, you will have great success fishing with a indicator
When to Fish Bottom / Bouncing Bottom
When do you bounce bottom? I recommend bouncing bottom always unless your unable to, do to insufficient water flows. When I bounce bottom I use just enough weight to barely touch the bottom of the river allowing my beads to continually circulate in the lower current. This technique is a very effective in its ability to allow your presentation to match the lower currents motion and speed. The key to bouncing bottom is using just enough weight to touch bottom while your rigging continues to drift down river without stopping or snagging up.
Bottom Bouncing Rigging Instructions
Click Images Below to Enlarge and get Step by Step Instructions
Click next picture to start
1st Tie a swivel to the main line and add the weighting system to the clamp at the bottom of the barrel swivel. I like to use banding with a series of split shot's below the swivel. The added elasticity of the banding allows one to snap off or snap out with ease when snagged to the bottom of the river. Most of the time this weighting system will snap free when snagged to the bottom of the river.
Last Tie your leader to the swivel ( the side with the clamp ), peg your bead 3" above the hook and your rigged to bounce bottom. Follow the steps above on bouncing bottom, if you do, you will have great success fishing with trout, steelhead and salmon beads
Leader Line Selection
When selecting a leader it is important to choose one that disappears in the water while flexing effortlessly with motion of the current. When I fish I use fluorocarbon with very little memory or visibility. It's low visibility and memory allows it to disappear in the water while swaying effortlessly with the current. When I fish for trout I'll use 4 to 6lb test, for steelhead 6 to 12lb test, and for salmon 10 to 30lb test. The strength of leader will depend on the water flows. If water flows are high than I typically fish heavier line. I typically fish with Seagaur. I really like it and highly recommend it.
Leader Line Lengths
When selecting the length of your leader it is important to know where the fish are holding in the river. If fish are holding in fast water or behind rocks then most likely a shorter leader is required to get the beads down ( A 1 1/2' - 4' leader ). If the fish are holding in long slow stretches of water or in deep pools then a longer leader is recommend ( A 5' - 8' leader ). A longer leader is more forgiving to the sway of the current allowing the bead to drop naturally with less transfer of the weights movement to the bead. A shorter leader and the bead responds instantly to the movement of the weight against the bottom of the river, mimicking its every move. The longer the leader is the more natural the bead drops with less transfer of the weights movement to the bead. Each length has it's time and purpose but whenever possible go with a longer, more forgiving leader.
Rigging Instructions on Tying a Tandem Bead Leader
video coming soon
Here are a few safe, basic ways to peg trout, steelhead & salmon beads with the King Pin ( a rubber bead pegging system ) and with Center Pin's ( a biodegradable pegging system ).
A FEW WAYS TO PEG BEADS
Trailing a Alevin ( bead pattern / streamer ) with a Steelhead Bead
Trailing a steelhead bead behind a alevin bead pattern in low, clear water conditions can be deadly especially late in the spawn when steelhead have reference to and have seen alevin ( trout, steelhead and salmon when first hatched from the egg and are attached to yolk as a food source.) In low water conditions alevin are forced to move from the safety of their beds to deeper water where steelhead find protection, rest and safe passage during their migration. A bead flossed with maribo ( feather ) replicating alevin as they dive between and around rocks on the bottom of the river is definite winner with trout, steelhead and salmon especially in these passages.
Adding a embryo ( blood dot ) to a bead replicating a live fish egg
Here are some basic ways to add a blood dot ( embryo ) to a bead so it ( the trout, steelhead or salmon bead ) replicates live fish eggs during the spawn.
video coming soon
Trailing a Jig with a Steelhead Bead
Trailing a jig with a bead in low, clear water conditions can be deadly especially late in the spawn when steelhead have reference to and have seen alevin ( trout, steelhead and salmon when first hatched from the egg and are attached to yolk as a food source.) In low water conditions alevin are forced to move from the safety of their beads to deeper water where steelhead find protection, rest and safe passage during their migration. A jig foraging ( replicating ) an alevin as it dives between and around rocks on the bottom of the river is definite winner with steelhead especially in these passages. As for beads replicating fish eggs steelhead can't resist!. From the time they were born to the time they return to spawn themselves steelhead will see multiple species spawn before their eyes in the very beds ( spawning beds ) they originate from, as well as others they will inhabit. The necessity for survival and the call of the wild calls these fish to target the egg as a definite food and life source. From food to birthing the egg is, and will always be, sought after by these elusive trophy fish.
video coming soon
Steelhead Spawning
Northern Michigan Steelhead spawning on their beds. Footage taken underwater by a Sport Fish Michigan Guide. featuring females, males, and a surprise large mouth bass on a Northern Michigan tributary to Lake Michigan.
